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| 04-07-2010 |
Newsletter - Natural Insect Control
Hello! You are receiving this newsletter because you signed up for it on our website. You may unsubscribe at any time by following the link at the bottom of this message. Thank you!
Featured Natural Insect Control Products:
There has never been more interest in controlling nuisance insects without chemicals and we get lots of questions about it. Encouraging birds in your garden with feeders, bird baths and houses is great as many birds also eat insects but there are some other natural aids to help as well;
New this year, Allied Precision who makes the popular Water Wiggler to eliminate mosquitoes in bird baths, introduced a Solar Powered Water Wiggler. Just place the Solar Water Wiggler in full sun for optimal operation. The Water Wiggler keeps the water moving to deter mosquitoes from breeding in your bird bath.
Also new this year, we are pleased to offer EcoBlends Deet Free Insect Repellant formulated from a traditional Native American recipe. We’ve been using it for years after discovering it on a birding trip in Maine. It works extremely well - especially against those nasty black flies!
For those of you who haven’t tried the Ticked Off Tick Remover, now is a great time as they have just introduced an economical 3-Pack version. We’ve been using this tick remover for years and find it the easiest and safest way to remove the entire tick from people and animals.
Interest in bats and bat houses is also very high. Not a day goes by that we don’t get asked about them. Bats are a much misunderstood mammal. While it is possible to encourage bats to take up residence on your property, they are quite transient and even when you provide all the right conditions the success rates are relatively low. They do eat a tremendous amount of night flying insects including mosquitoes and moths. Before investing in a bat house, we recommend that you click here and read our bat house information document.
Purple Martins are considerably easier to attract – if you are fortunate enough to have them in your area ( Click here for a Purple Martin range map ). Martins seek out man made houses exclusively to breed. Purple Martin houses should be located in an open area where the birds will have clear access from all sides. It is recommended that you position your Purple Martin house 30 feet away from trees and other obstructions so that the Martins have plenty of room to swoop and soar around their house. Some people report that Purple Martins prefer sites where utility wires are nearby for perching. Positioning your Purple Martin house near open water (a lake or pond) may help but it is not essential.
Enjoy the Summer!
Brian & Kelly Delaney at For the Birds Nature Shop, Canada
Browse our entire Bird Houses & Nesting Section on our website.
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| 07-04-2010 |
Newsletter - Nectar Feeding Tips for Hummingbirds and Orioles
Hello! You are receiving this newsletter because you signed up for it on our website. You may unsubscribe at any time by following the link at the bottom of this message. Thank you!
Hummingbird and Oriole Products:
Hummingbird Feeding
Hummingbirds are extremely loyal to feeding sites. A hummingbird that feeds in your yard one year will return to that feeder the next. The key to successful hummingbird attraction is to keep the feeder clean and the nectar fresh. Hummingbirds keep their distance from fermented nectar. If you see hummers flying around your feeders but not feeding it’s a sure sign that something isn’t clean and fresh. Fermented nectar can support the growth of deadly molds. If a hummingbird gets a taste of fermented nectar from your feeder it will look elsewhere for a drink and remain suspicious of the offending feeder for a long time.
Deter bees and wasps by using a “flat top” or “top feeding” style hummingbird feeder where the nectar is not sitting at the feeding port. The hummers can reach the nectar but bees and wasps cannot. Keeping the feeder clean of spills and drips will also help. Avoid putting out feeders whose feeding ports have yellow centres – yellow is the colour that bees and wasps associate with food!
Keep ants out of your feeders by hanging an “ant moat” like the patented Detourant, above your feeder or purchase a feeder with a built-in ant moat. Our Aspects “Hummzinger” line of hummingbird feeders all feature built in ant moats. Fill your ant moat with water – sugar ants cannot swim, so they will either perish in the ant moat or, more often, head back to where they came from. Never put oil in your ant moat – it can be very dangerous if oil gets onto a hummingbird’s feathers!
Fill your hummingbird feeder with packaged hummingbird nectar or a sugar water recipe (the correct ratio is 1 part white sugar dissolved in 4 parts boiling water, allow to cool and store any excess in the refrigerator). Don't use honey, raw sugar or brown sugar in your feeder. Hummingbirds can't digest it as well. Fermentation & mold growth also occurs faster in solutions made from things other than white granulated sugar or packaged nectar mix. Do not use artificial sweeteners - it provides no calories / energy. Red dye or food colouring is completely unnecessary.
Clean your feeder every 2 –3 days in warm weather. In cooler weather you may be able to go as long as one week. Every time you change or refill your feeder, wash it with dishsoap and water and remember to rinse well! (- hummers hate the taste of soap!) At least once a month, disinfect your hummingbird feeder thoroughly with a solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. Soak your feeder in this solution for one hour, and then clean with a bottlebrush. Rinse well with running water and refill. Bleach is both safe and very effective.
If this is your first season feeding hummingbirds, be sure to hang your feeder in a location that is easily visible from overhead – so the hummingbirds can see it as they cruise by. Remember to keep it clean and fresh, even if you don't see them drinking from it - a poorly maintained feeder will deter them when they do find it.
Oriole Feeding
Orioles strongly associate the colour orange with food, the same way that Hummingbirds are attracted to the colour red. Placing an orange nectar feeder designed especially for Orioles is one way to attract these beautiful wild birds. The nectar recipie for Orioles is similar to the one for hummingbirds, except use 5 parts water to 1 part white sugar. Clean and maintain freshness the same way as you would for a hummingbird feeder. Other Oriole feeder foods include grape jelly and fruits such as oranges (halved), blueberries, blackberries and peaches. Spring migration is a great time to try and attract Orioles and other fruit eating birds to your bird feeding station. Learn more about where to find Orioles at Cornell University's All About Birds Website.
Feel free to send us your Hummingbird and Oriole feeding tips and tricks – we’d love to share them with our customers!
Happy Spring!
Brian & Kelly Delaney at For the Birds Nature Shop, Canada
Browse our entire birdfeeder selection in the Feeders & Poles Section of our website.
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| 03-03-2010 |
Newsletter - Bird Houses & Nesting Aids
Hello! You are receiving this newsletter because you signed up for it on our website. You may unsubscribe at any time by following the link at the bottom of this message. Thank you!
Featured Bird Houses & Nesting Aids:
Is it Spring yet? You've likely noticed the increase in birdsong and activity of wild birds looking for nesting places. Be a good landlord by providing properly designed and properly placed birdhouses or nesting boxes designed for a specific bird species.
What does "properly designed" mean? Nature loves to surprise us by doing the unexpected, but by providing bird houses that meet the requirements of a particular species, you'll be encouraging non-invasive birds to establish their family. Look for:
- Adequate box and entry hole size for intented species; different bird species fit into different sized holes. Birds know this intuitively. They will select a nest box with the right size hole because it lets them in but not larger, potentially harmful, birds and rodents.
- Height of the entrance hole; generally the entrance hole should be at least 4 inches or more from the floor (this varies on the species). This helps keep nestlings from fledging too early and makes it harder for predators to reach in.
Here are some examples of properly sized box dimensions for common Canadian species that readily accept nest boxes:
| Species | Floor Size | Entrance Size | Hole Height | Box Placement | Habitat |
| Chickadees | 4x4-5x5" | 1 1/8-1 1/2" | 6-8" | 5-15 ft | Forest edges, open meadows & open woods |
| Bluebirds | 5x5" | 1 1/2" | 6-7" | 5-10 ft | Forest edges, open meadows & open woods |
| Tree Swallows | 4x4-5x5" | 1 1/4-1 1/2" | 4-6" | 5-15 ft | Open fields near water, pastures & marshes |
| Purple Martins | 6x6" | 2 1/4" | 1" | 5-20 ft | Open fields near water, pastures & marshes |
| House Wrens | 4x4-5x5" | 1-1 1/2" | 4-7" | 5-10 ft | Pastures, fields, meadows, parks & woodlots |
A comprehesive table of dimensions and easy design plans can be found in the Minnesota Department of Wildlife's recently updated Woodworking for Wildlife - Homes for Birds and Animals book.
If you have a properly designed house and your birds aren't using it, there is likely a problem with its placement or a predator. Generally, houses should be placed with their entrance holes facing away from the prevailing winds NW and with the entrance holes receiving early morning SE light. If you suspect predators, consider installing a Bird Guardian, a patented bird house predator guard.
Reminder - If you find a baby bird that appears abandoned or orphaned, it is almost assuredly not. If you want to help, first determine whether it is a nestling or a fledgling. Nestlings have a lot of bare skin and cannot hop at all. It may have been blown out of or fallen from its nest, or dropped by a crow or jay that was trying to take it. If you can locate the nest, simply return the nestling to its nest. Don't worry about your scent, it won't affect the parents recognition or acceptance. Fledglings can hop or walk. Fledglings sometimes take awhile to master flight, and may hop around and make sounds so its parents will feed it. Parents cannot be with all their fledglings at the same time, so often these fledglings are mistakenly thought to be abandoned. If you are worried about the fledgling being in danger from cats, dogs or people, pick it up and carry it to a nearby tree or shrub. Its parents will find it. Also keep your pets indoors for a few days. Taking a supposedly abandoned baby bird to a wildlife rehabilitation shelter will cause it great stress and deprive it from learning necessary survival skills. This should only be done if you are absolutely certain that it is abandoned. For more detailed information, read Cornell University's Lab of Ornithology's Website article on "orphaned" birds.
Feel free to send us your nesting tips and tricks – we’d love to share them with our customers!
Happy Spring!
Brian & Kelly Delaney at For the Birds Nature Shop, Canada
Browse our entire Bird Baths & Bird Houses Section on our website.
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| 18-01-2010 |
Newsletter - Want more birds this winter? Just add water!
Hello! You are receiving this newsletter because you signed up for it on our website. You may unsubscribe at any time by following the link at the bottom of this message. Thank you!
This issue's featured products: Heated Bird Baths
In addition to food, shelter and suitable nesting sites birds require water for survival. In winter, water is an often overlooked requirement. Heated bird baths allow you to offer open water during the cold winter months. When all the water in and around your yard is frozen, your heated bird bath will attract birds like a magnet - even if you are not feeding them!
Without a source of fresh water birds resort to eating snow for hydration. Converting snow to water requires a great deal more of a bird's energy reserves. During winter birds not only need water for drinking but for bathing as well. Why would a bird bathe in cold weather? Because dirty feathers don't insulate as well. A dip and splash in the bath will get their feathers back to optimum condition. Many of our customers report that they get a wider variety of birds at their baths than at their feeders.
Heated bird baths are durable plastic bird baths that have built in, enclosed heating elements that are thermostatically controlled. They only operate when needed and just enough to keep the water from icing over. Operation is economical, the manufacturer claims it uses just pennies a day and we personally notice no difference in our electric bill. The heating elements are designed to shut off automatically if the bath is dry.
We prefer and stock the Allied Precision line of heated bird baths as they are the best rated heated bird baths on the market and are tested to work down to -28C. This means that when the temperature drops below -28C the bath may freeze over. However, it will not be damaged by freezing. We have many customers in Winnipeg and Edmonton who have been using these baths for years and report that they perform well in even colder temperatures.
You can also provide open water in the winter by placing a shallow (not more than 2 inches deep), plastic dish of lukewarm water outside and replacing it when it freezes. DO NOT add antifreeze or glycerin to the birdbath. Antifreeze is poisonous to all animals, including birds. Glycerin is a low-level toxin. When birds drink it, it raises their blood sugar and can cause death. When birds bathe in glycerin-spiked water, their feathers can become saturated and matted, providing poor insulation and leaving them susceptible to hypothermia. (It is a myth that using glycerin in your bird bath is safe.)
Remember to be a good host and keep your bird bath clean by changing the water regularly and giving it a good scrub with a mild detergent on a regular basis.
Keep warm!
Brian & Kelly Delaney at For the Birds Nature Shop, Canada
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| 07-10-2009 |
Newsletter - A new wireless weather forecaster that's better than your birds
Hello! You are receiving this newsletter because you signed up for it on our website. You may unsubscribe at any time by following the link at the bottom of this message. Thank you!
If you feed the birds, you know that birds are great barometers - its certain that bad weather is on the way when your feeders are full of activity!
We've been offering quality weather instruments along with our wild bird supplies for a number of years and we are really excited to introduce to you a new wireless weather station from Davis Instuments, called the Davis VantageVue™. This precision weather station is designed specifically for the home weather enthusiast.
The new Davis Vantage Vue™ combines Davis Instruments’ legendary reliability and toughness into a home weather station that’s easy to install and use. VantageVue™ includes two components: the Integrated Sensor Suite (ISS) which houses and manages the external sensor array, and the Console which provides the user interface, data display, and calculations.
Weather updates transmit wirelessly every 2 1/2 seconds to the console up to 1,000 feet (300 m) outdoors, line of sight. The Davis Vantage Vue console’s unique Weather Center feature provides extensive additional information for each weather variable, including daily highs and lows, temperature changes by the hour, barometric changes and astronomical data such as meteor showers.
The outdoor sensor suite is solar powered with battery backup. The weather centre console may be powered using the included AC-power adapter or with batteries. You can even add Davis' WeatherLink™ software package to let your weather station interface with a your computer, to log and analyse your weather data, and upload your weather information to the internet.
Backed by our 30 day money back and best price guarantees - we think you'll agree that this would be the perfect gift for the weather enthusiast in your home (maybe thats you!).
Happy weather watching!
Brian & Kelly Delaney at For the Birds Nature Shop, Canada
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| 14-09-2009 |
Newsletter - Why Clean Feeders are Better for your Birds
Hello! You are receiving this newsletter because you signed up for it on our website. You may unsubscribe at any time by following the link at the bottom of this message. Thank you!
This issue's featured products: Easy to Clean Bird Feeders
Now there are no excuses! With each new generation of quality birdfeeders from our favourite manufacturers we've been excited to see that most have "easy to keep clean" features. For years we have been preaching the importance of clean feeders with fresh seed to customers in our shop.
Why are we so concerned about keeping your feeders clean? We believe that if you are going to attract wild birds to your yard that you should also be responsible for making it safe too. Clean feeders help thwart wild bird diseases that can sometimes occur at crowded, dirty feeding stations. Moldy seeds and feeders that harbour molds are not good for birds. Keep your feeding stations clean by regularly raking up seed hulls and disinfecting your feeders with a 10% bleach solution. (Or 50/50 white vinegar and water, if you prefer.) Rinse well and allow the feeders to dry thoroughly before refilling.
If you are looking to replace or purchase a new feeder, look for ones that are easy to clean. Although we love the look of wood - its hard to disinfect. We prefer the newer recycled plastic feeders - this non-porous plastic won't harbour mold or bacteria and makes cleaning a breeze. If you are partial to tube feeders, check out the Aspects Quick Clean Feeders with a base that removes with the push of a button.
Keeping your seed fresh and dry is equally important. Seeds are high in oil content and can turn rancid in hot weather or if stored in a warm place. Keep your seed in a cool, dry storage bin and preferably store it no longer than 9 months. When filling, avoid "topping off" your feeders (occassionaly let the seed run out so you know how fresh it is) and only put out as much seed as will be consumed in a 2-3 week period at the most. If you keep your seed offering fresh you'll be amazed at the number of birds you'll attract.
Send us your tips and tricks for easy cleaning! We’d love to share them with our other customers.
Brian & Kelly Delaney at For the Birds Nature Shop, Canada
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| 26-01-2009 |
Newsletter - Improving Seed Mileage
Hello! You are receiving this newsletter because you signed up for it on our website. You may unsubscribe at any time by following the link at the bottom of this message. Thank you!
This issue's featured products: Feeders that Improve Seed Mileage
Often our customers ask us "How can I keep; squirrels and big, bully birds from eating all my birdseed? I don’t mind feeding them a little but I really want the small birds to get some.” Experience tells us that if squirrels and bully birds are monopolizing your birdfeeders you’ll go through a lot more birdseed and you may deter smaller songbirds from feeding.
There are a number of well-made feeders that are specifically designed to exclude or deter these backyard pests. Some bird feeders are weight sensitive, like our best selling Squirrel Buster Plus, that not only thwarts squirrels but also the larger, heavier birds depending our how you set it up. Other birdfeeders feature domes or perchless feeding ports that only allow “clingers” such as chickadees, finches, woodpeckers and nuthatches to feed. Avoid seed trays or catch basins on which large birds may perch. Try a tube feeder that has a wire cages around the tubes, such as our caged, birdfeeder. Finches and small birds can get through to the feeding ports but large birds are excluded.
If starlings are gobbling down your suet, offer it in a feeder open only at the bottom, like our upside down suet feeder, requiring birds to feed hanging upside down. Woodpeckers, chickadees, and nuthatches will be able to cling, but most starlings cannot. Many of our customers that are handy have converted their suet cages by adding a wooden roof and sides to their cage, thus creating an upside down suet feeder themselves.
Squirrel baffles and domes can be added to your existing feeders or poles to thwart squirrels. These domes, shaped like an inverted bowl, are placed above the bird feeder to deter the squirrels from climbing down onto the feeder. Usually when a squirrel lands on the dome, it simply slides off. For pole-mounted feeders, squirrel baffles should be fixed in place under the feeder. As an alternative to commercially-made baffles and domes, some of our customers have used their imagination and found success using old vinyl records, plastic salad bowls, two-liter soda bottles and stove pipes.
If you hang your birdfeeder from a horizontal line, another tactic is to thread the line through several lengths of plastic tubing or 2L pop bottles, end to end. The bottles or tubing should spin when a squirrel tries to walk on it. The pop bottles work well for raccoons too. Some our of customer tell us that suspending feeders from a three foot length of monofilament fishing line works well as it is too thin for their squirrels to climb down.
Get your friends and family involved in the Great Backyard Bird Count, February 13 – 15, 2009. Participation is fun and free! For more details and last year’s numbers visit: The Great Backyard Bird Count’s Website
Send us your tips and tricks for better seed mileage! We’d love to share them with our customers.
Brian & Kelly Delaney at For the Birds Nature Shop, Canada
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| 23-08-2008 |
Newsletter – Clean Feeders & Healthy Birds
Hello! You are receiving this newsletter because you signed up for it on our website. You may unsubscribe at any time by following the link at the bottom of this message. Thank you!
This issue's featured products: Easy to Clean Bird Feeders
We feed wild birds for our own enjoyment and to help supplement their natural food sources. However, with this enjoyment comes some responsibility - a responsible bird feeder needs to consider the hygiene of their birdfeeding stations. Keeping a clean birdfeeder with fresh seed promotes bird health and reduces the risk of spreading avian diseases amongst the wild bird population.
Birdfeeders should be cleaned at least four times a year by washing with a germ killing 10% bleach solution (9 parts water to 1 part chlorine bleach or a hydrogen peroxide bleach alternative) to help eliminate harmful bacteria. Studies also show that straight white vinegar (which is usually sold in 5% strength) is also effective in killing up to 99 percent of bacteria, 82 percent of mold, and 80 percent of germs (viruses). Be sure to rinse well and allow the feeder to dry thoroughly before refilling.
Additionally any time that you see mold appearing that is a sign that your feeder needs a good cleaning. As wet conditions will accelerate the growth of mold, you might want to keep birdfeeders less full and refill more frequently to avoid spoilage in damp conditions. Domes and weatherguards can help protect the seed in your feeders from the elements.
When purchasing a new birdfeeder look for feeders that can be easily taken apart for cleaning. We love the new, patented “Quick-Clean” design from Aspects on their seed tube feeders and nyjer tube feeders. The feeder bottom is easily removed for a thorough cleaning with the simple push of two buttons!
Our selection of recycled plastic bird feeders from Birds Choice feature perforated removable seed trays that pop out easily for cleaning. The recycled plastic material is also much easier to clean than wood and is guaranteed not to split, crack or fade.
Most birds will not eat moldy or rancid seeds unless they are really desperate. However, if they do eat it, it may be harmful to their health. Be conscientious about your seed storage. High in oil content, bird seed can and will go rancid if stored improperly or for too long. Keeping bird seed cool and dry is key. We recommend that even under proper storage conditions you should discard seed that is more than six months old. Put discarded seed in a covered compost container or in your municipal compost collection unit to keep it from being eaten.
When working on your fall yard cleanup, do your birds a favour and don't be too fussy about it. Leaving seed heads intact helps to supplement winter feeding and creating a brush pile in your garden provides a haven for birds on cold nights.
If you are fortunate enough to live in Nova Scotia, consider attending "For our Birds 2008" in Halifax on November 15 & 16. This conference focuses on sharing science, conservation and education about our birds in Nova Scotia and features a keynote address by Dr. Janis Dickinson, Director of Citizen Science at Laboratory of Ornithology, Cornell University. More information can be found on their website: http://ecologyaction.ca/coastal/birds/
Feel free to send us your bird feeding tips and tricks – we’d love to share them with our customers!
Enjoy the Fall Colours!
Brian & Kelly Delaney at For the Birds Nature Shop, Canada
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| 25-04-2008 |
Newsletter - Hummingbird Feeding FAQs
Hello! You are receiving this newsletter because you signed up for it on our website. You may unsubscribe at any time by following the link at the bottom of this message. Thank you!
Featured Hummingbird Products:
We've had a number of emails in the last week asking us about hummingbird feeding. As such, we decided to send out this special edition newsletter:
Hummingbirds are extremely loyal to feeding sites. A hummingbird that feeds in your yard one year will return the next. Their average life span is 3-5 years with a maximum of 12 years!
Reward the loyalty of your hummingbirds by keeping your feeders clean and the nectar fresh. Hummingbirds keep their distance from fermented nectar. If you see hummers flying around your feeders but not feeding it’s a sure sign that something isn’t clean and fresh.
Fermented nectar can support the growth of deadly molds. If a hummingbird gets a taste of fermented nectar from your feeder it will look elsewhere for a drink and remain suspicious of the offending feeder for a long time.
Hummingbird Feeding FAQs
Q. What is the correct recipe for hummingbird nectar?
A. Fill your hummingbird feeder with packaged hummingbird nectar or a sugar water recipe. The correct ratio is 1 part white sugar dissolved in 4 parts boiling water, allow to cool and store any excess in the refrigerator. (Boil the water before measuring to get the right proportions.) This mixture approximates the average sucrose content, about 21%, of the flowers favoured by our hummingbirds. Don't ever use honey, raw sugar or brown sugar in your feeder. Hummingbirds can't digest it as well. Fermentation & mold growth also occurs faster in solutions made from things other than white granulated sugar or packaged nectar mix. Do not use artificial sweeteners - it provides no calories or food energy. Red dye or food colouring is completely unnecessary.
Q. How often do I need to clean my feeder?
A. In warm weather, you'll need to change the nectar every 2 –3 days. In cooler weather you may be able to go as long as one week. Every time you change or refill your feeder, wash it with dishsoap and water and remember to rinse well! (- hummers hate the taste of soap!) At least once a month, disinfect your hummingbird feeder thoroughly with a solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. Soak your feeder in this solution for one hour, and then clean with a bottlebrush. Rinse well with running water and refill. Bleach is both safe and very effective.
Q. How can I keep bees and wasps away from my feeder?
A. Use a “flat top” or “top feeding” style feeder where the nectar is not at the feeding port. The hummers can reach the nectar but bees and wasps cannot. Also avoid putting out feeders whose feeding ports have yellow centres – yellow is the colour that bees and wasps associate with food.
Q. How can I keep ants out of my feeder?
A. Hang an “ant moat” above your feeder or purchase a feeder with a built-in ant moat. The Aspects “Hummzinger” line of feeders (our favourites!) all feature built in ant moats. Fill your ant moat with water – ants cannot swim, so they will either perish in the ant moat or, more often, head back to where they came from. Never put oil in your ant moat – it can be very dangerous if oil gets onto a hummingbird’s feathers!
Q. When should I put my feeder up and take it down for the season?
A. Those on the west coast will start to see hummers as early as March 15th and those on the east coast will see them as early as April 15th. Check out the hummingbird migration maps through a link to "Journey North" at the bottom of our Resources page of our website.
Hang your feeder in a location that is easily visible from overhead – so the hummingbirds can see it as they cruise by. Take your feeders down about two weeks after you see the last hummingbird. Leaving your feeders out these last couple of weeks are a real blessing for late migrants and there is no evidence that leaving the feeder out discourages migration.
Q. What else can I do to attract hummingbirds?
A. In addition to providing nectar at your feeders, consider planting shrubs, vines and flowers that feature red, purple and coral blossoms such as: Azalea, Flowering Quince, Weigela , Butterfly Bush, Coral Honeysuckle, Japanese Honeysuckle, Trumpet Vine, Morning Glory , Bee Balm, Hosta, Cannas, Lupine, Salvia, Impatiens, Fuchsia and Petunia. Inquire at your local garden centre for other suggestions.
Food is just one element of creating a successful hummingbird habitat. Consider adding water and shelter to your backyard oasis. Hummingbirds are particularly attracted to misters. Planting apple trees or putting up a hummingbird house will provide a desirable place for nesting. Both these can be found on our website in the Baths & Houses category).
Feel free to send us your tips and tricks – we’d love to share them with our customers!
Happy Hummingbird Feeding!
Brian & Kelly Delaney at For the Birds Nature Shop, Canada
Browse the entire Bird Feeders section of our website for more great ideas.
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